2020. 2. 28. 21:59ㆍ카테고리 없음
Hey Everyone,I'm gonna try to dial in my '84 Mitsubishi CK2588R console TV and was wondering what a good signal generator for test signals is without spending a lot of money.I was looking at the Tektronix TSG170A, but was thinking there may be something cheaper.Dial in, convergence, or a complete alignment?If only convergence, then yes, go cheaper - the TSG170A is overkill. Look for a decent Sencore, RCA or B&K cross-hatch generator - some have full field outputs too.A step up, and with WAY more options, would be a Sencore VA62 - even a VA48 still has many uses.Some have bought the Leader NTSC generators and are quite happy with them.Still 'dial in' - not explanatory enough to pinpoint a sig gen.Brian'Capacitor Cosmetologist since 1979'USN Retired 1984-2006 (Avionics/Cal). Hey Everyone,I'm gonna try to dial in my '84 Mitsubishi CK2588R console TV and was wondering what a good signal generator for test signals is without spending a lot of money.I was looking at the Tektronix TSG170A, but was thinking there may be something cheaper.Dial in, convergence, or a complete alignment?If only convergence, then yes, go cheaper - the TSG170A is overkill. Look for a decent Sencore, RCA or B&K cross-hatch generator - some have full field outputs too.A step up, and with WAY more options, would be a Sencore VA62 - even a VA48 still has many uses.Some have bought the Leader NTSC generators and are quite happy with them.Still 'dial in' - not explanatory enough to pinpoint a sig gen.Hey Findm,Thanks for responding to me. And sorry about my lack of detail, I'm new to television repair. I recently got this Mitsubishi television and I did a complete tear down to dust out the cabinet.
The picture was slightly shifted to the right so I followed some protocols from the service manual to do the initial set up of purity and convergence and color temperature. I was adjusting the purity magnets on the crt and the picture became perfectly centered, but now the colors are all off and I wasn't able to get them looking right again without the picture shifting over again (there is some white paint on the magnets showing where the were before I messed with them).
So long story short, I decided to start from scratch with the setup protocols in the service manual and I removed the magnets and deflection yoke. The service manual calls for a cross hatch signal in order to align the colors, so I'm wondering what's a good way to go about that. Again, excuse my lack of knowledge, I really am trying here. BTW, there is a VR on the main board that says H-HOLD.would that be short for Horizontal Hold? Would adjusting that have fixed my problem with the picture shifting to the right before I messed with it? It's strange because the only VRs that are easily accessible are for vertical adjustments and this H-HOLD VR is buried back on the main PCB.Here's a pic of the shifting I'm talking aboutThanks.
BTW, there is a VR on the main board that says H-HOLD.would that be short for Horizontal Hold? Would adjusting that have fixed my problem with the picture shifting to the right before I messed with it? It's strange because the only VRs that are easily accessible are for vertical adjustments and this H-HOLD VR is buried back on the main PCB.Here's a pic of the shifting I'm talking aboutThanksYes, it is for the horizontal hold - and it may shift the raster left or right, but it's primary purpose is to sync the horizontal sweep circuits to the incoming signal.If you adjusted the purity rings, well, purity is going to be off. You might want to join Videokarma (free.) and post your troubles over there - lots of nice folks who will take you in hand and help you get things right.Your Mitsubishi is a tad new to be an antique, and V-K has a forum for solid state CRT televisions.Cheers,Brian'Capacitor Cosmetologist since 1979'USN Retired 1984-2006 (Avionics/Cal). The Tektronix TSG-170A was intended to be a studio reference generator and could be used for studio monitor alignments.
It was never intended for television repair and does not have any RF output or CRT gun drives. The B&K 1246 was an extremely popular generator that was used by a great many TV repair shops, and its 'big brother,' the model 1250, did everything you could possibly want.
There were a number of other generators from Leader, Heathkit, and Sencore that were quite good too. Any of those would be more suitable for fixing retro TVs.While a TV color alignment generator will help you with convergence and purity set-ups, among other things, it may not be the answer when it comes to horizontal centering. In later solid state TVs, horizontal centering is fixed by the 'video jungle' IC, or the equivalent in separate chips, that develop the H and V drives from the video input signal. If that's what you've got, it may not have an adjustment for horizontal centering.
Get a copy of the Sams Photofacts or the original service manual to be sure. If that's the case, you may have to live with what you've got, since it is unlikely that the game is going to have any horizontal positioning adjustment either.'
Hell, there are no rules here-we're trying to accomplish something!' My advice: stay away from any RCA test equipment, especially the gear made for color TV work.You first need to degause the picture tube before doing purity or any other color adjustments.Leader made some good equipment; the LCG396 is good for most color TV work.
You can buy mine for $50 plus shipping. For purity adjustments you will need RGB raster; it is extremely difficult to perform this adjustment without a solid red, green or blue screen.Attachments:IMG7792.JPG 105.13 KiB Viewed 2019 times. Thanks for all the replies. Do you guys think that the deflection yoke could've just been cocked and that's what was causing it to be off center?
I have the whole assembly off right now and have to put it all back together, but that was an idea I had after reading up a bit.Also, I ended up buying a tektronix TSG170A for $28. Did I just buy something I can't use? I thought initially because I was told it was over kill it would do more than I needed. Will I atlas be able to put a cross hatch and NTSC bars signal via composite? I was also looking at the BK 1257 which I could've got for around $60 used.EDIT: I'm seeing if I can cancel the order for the TSG170A and I found a nice BK 1250 instead. I'm personally a fan of BK and would rather have their equipment anyway.
The yoke will definitely have an effect on the picture position.The Tek TSG-170A is not a bad generator, but it may be limited in how useful it will be on the bench. For instance, it has only red field (not blue or green); no RF output, only video. If you have a TV that has no video input it will be difficult to inject a signal.I can't wait to get back in the shop and reset the deflection yoke. I hope that will straighten things out.Also what is used to hold the shims on? It peeled off real easy.
Is it some sort of RTV silicone?Thanks. Unfortunately, and I hate to say this, but you will probably NOT get it to look as good as it was to start with since you removed the magnets and yoke from the CRT.
I have been repairing TV's for 40 years, and learned early on not to disturb these components unless absolutely necessary. Moving the yoke around is not how to center the picture. If you have plenty of time to play with it, you may get it close to the way it was, but it is difficult. Every move you make with one part interacts with the setting of another. If you can tell where the yoke and magnets were located from markings or tape on the neck, you need to put them back there as closely to original as possible.
The yoke alone can be twisted, moved in or out, or tilted in any direction which greatly affects the picture. The magnets also have the possibility to be in an infinite number of positions both rotational and slid in or out on the neck. Of course it can be done correctly, as I have replaced many bad yokes and CRT's over the years, but it does take time, and LOTS of patience. As far as the horizontal shift to one side, Mitsubishi TV's were notorious for having LOTS, and I mean LOTS of bad leaking electrolytic capacitors.
Not only bad from the aspect of capacity and ESR, but mostly for leaking the electrolyte onto the board and corroding circuit traces. I've had some real hair-pullers on some of those finding and repairing the destroyed traces. Good luck.Joel Walker. Ah jeez, sounds like I got my work cut out for me. I went through all the boards and every component looks fine, no leaking seen anywhere. There is tape on the neck of the tube where the yoke was mounted, but unfortunately the white paint cracked off from the magnets and is pretty much gone now.
So I'll have to figure it out. I got lots of patience and not one to give up if I see progress.2 Questions:Do you guys set up a mirror in front of the TV so you can see what you're doing?
I find it so tedious to make a small adjustment and come back around to the front or look over from the top to check it out. What's the real TV repair man way?The purity magnets seem to stick together. It's hard to turn just one without them all rubbing together and moving. Can some lubrication help or is this just the nature of the beast?Here are some pics of the TV and the set up pages from the service manual. Please give me any ideas or advice you get after checking these out.This is when I first opened her up and didn't touch a thing yet. It was full of dust and spider webs.Here she is all torn downThe cabinet after I dusted it out and put it all back together. I installed a new heavy duty power cord, too.
The original one was frayed in some spots.The Magnets before I touched themHere's how she sits nowI'll post the service manual pages as links so they can be viewed full sizeWhen it's saying to disconnect the Blue to generate a yellow raster, what input am I feeding into the TV? All I have right now is a Nintendo to hook up to it. It became yellow, but i see the game playing in the background obviously just with a yellow tint. How do I get static yellow? I need a signal generator right?
Tektronix Tsg-170a
But which setting would it be on for this? White?Also, is a degaussing coil absolutely mandatory? Forgive my ignorance, but aren't they only needed if a magnet has messed with the tube? I just don't wanna spend $50-$60 dollars on one if I don't have to.Thanks, guys.
I really love this TV. A degaussing coil is nice, but as long as the built-in degauss circuit is working in the set, it should be okay. In a pinch, I've used other things to degauss a set that was really bad, such as a BIG Weller soldering gun(D550), or a bulk tape demagnetizer. I'm glad you took pictures. They will help you to get the yoke and magnets as close as possible to their original location.
That set looks like it pre-dates the years of really crappy electrolytics in Mitsubishi's. +1 on what W2WIQ says as well. And YES to a mirror to see what you are doing.Joel Walker.